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MOTORCYCLE NITROUS SYSTEM
Nitrous works great on
Motorcycle engines, jet-skis, snowmobiles, boats, outboards,
micro-lites etc. Both two and four stroke, from 50cc to
1500cc
It works great on ALL engines, from
lawnmowers (tried that), and model aircraft engines, up to big diesel
marine engines, supercharged, turbocharged, or naturally
aspirated can all be boosted with Nitrous Oxide. Fuel
injected, or Carburettor.
It makes absolutely no difference. All will
work just fine with Nitrous Oxide as a power booster. Only a
few small differences between each system are required.
Picture of a
home made nitrous kit! Cost? VERY LITTLE! |
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For almost any bike, you will
the following items...
1. A bottle or "tank" to store Nitrous Oxide
Specification: Any Vessel
that can safely store Liquid Nitrous Oxide, meaning a
Bottle/Tank with a 3000psi approx test pressure or higher used
with a Bottle valve that has a pressure relief valve rated
LOWER than this test pressure. It does not HAVE to be a
conventional bottle. (For example if you wish to "cheat" you
could fill part of a motorcycle frame, Rear swinging arm, or
under a cars bonnet maybe the "strut brace" could be used
for secret storage).
Ideals: Aluminium alloy, polished, or anodised, or
painted in two pack epoxy spray paints and mounted using
machined billet bracket, and/or Velcro straps for attractive
and professional appearance. The one above is an old C02 fire
extinguisher, polished and fitted with a new valve.
2. A valve for this bottle
Specification: A full
flow, (internal bore 2.5 to 4mm) Bottle valve, usually as used
for a C02 bottle. It must use a Siphon tube internally that
fits into the underside of the valve to draw liquid Nitrous
Oxide from the bottom of the bottle / tank. This Valve MUST
have (for safety reasons) an Over Pressure rupture disk, as
fitted to all C02 bottle valves that you can buy. See
link above.
Ideals: Small attractive,
chromed or Aluminium alloy Valves preferred for a professional
appearance.
3. A special fitting that fits this bottle valve and converts
to a normal 1/8th BSP thread
Specification: A
specialised fitting that follows the 2.5 to 4mm internal bore
of the siphon tube/valve and fits the unique Carbon Di-Oxide
(CO2)Valve thread that all these valves use, and reduces the thread
size down to 1/8th BSP so we can then attach the Nitrous Line
to the Valve. See link above.
Ideals: Most of the ones we
find or can get easily are brass which goes dull! But, this
can be Chromed, for the sake of appearances.
4. A braided Stainless steel Nitrous Pipe to feed the Solenoid
in the engine bay
Specification: Recommended
for all bikes and race vehicles - Normal Braided line. The
same stuff countless racers, and motorcyclists use to swap
onto their vehicles to replace the Rubber brake pipes! Its
actually a PTFE (a sort of plastic) sleeve inside a woven
stainless steel sheath. It has a 3.7mm internal bore. It can
be expensive, if bought "branded (Goodridge, or Aeroquip for
Example) or cheap if unbranded and bought off a roll by the
meter. Its all the same for our purposes. You will also need
some fittings that are easy to screw onto the ends that go
from "braided" to 1/8th BSP. These fittings have a minimum
2.30 mm internal bore.
Alternatively, and for cheapness, with some advantages for
small power boosts only, and on some road cars, 4mm Nylon, but
you will need the stuff with 1.7mm internal bore. And suitable
fittings with nuts and olives. (not the more common 2.5mm bore
stuff - its not really up to the pressure!)
Ideals: Stainless Braided pipe! With stainless steel fittings
on anything with 40BHP extra added or above, and on all bikes.
It looks more professional too.
The argument for
and against 4mm Nylon for feeding Nitrous from the bottle is
quite involved but... Its
here
should you be interested. Facts only. No
"opinions"!
5. A Nitrous Solenoid!
Specification:
Needs to operate reliably, against up to 1500psi pressure of
liquid Nitrous Oxide gas at only 10 volts DC as this is
sometimes all that's available due to current drain on small
light batteries on race vehicles without charging systems.
It must also flow enough Nitrous for the intended power
increase. The solenoids I modify are actually intended for
compressed air, and after modification flow +140bhp worth of
Nitrous Oxide. I t must not "freeze" open, or leak, and must
operate reliably over thousands of operations. Needs to be
corrosion and vibration "safe"
Ideals:
Should be low current drain, light small physically, easy to
mount, have 1/8th BSP threads on inlet and outlet.
Stainless steel, or anodised aluminium bodies look the
nicest and do not corrode. Magnet wiring and connections
should be waterproof.
6. A Fuel Solenoid!
Specification:
Needs to operate reliably, against up to 100 psi pressure of
liquid fuel @ only 10 volts DC as this is sometimes all
that's available due to current drain on small light
batteries on race vehicles without charging systems. It must
also flow enough Fuel for the intended power increase. The
solenoids I use here are actually intended for compressed
air. There are many suitable ones, but the seat sealing
material must be tested to make sure it does not harden,
soften, deteriorate, dissolve in everything from pump fuels,
to methanol, and various octane boosters. It must not
"freeze" open, or leak, and must operate reliably over
thousands of operations. Needs to be corrosion and vibration
"safe"
Ideals: Should be low
current drain, light small physically, easy to mount, have
1/8th BSP threads on inlet and outlet. Stainless
steel, or anodised aluminium bodies look the nicest and do
not corrode. Magnet wiring and connections should be
waterproof.
7. A Tee piece or other means of supplying fuel to the Fuel
Solenoid - depends on vehicle
Specification:
Any type of tee piece can be used. Some means of tapping into
the fuel pressure side of the Carb(s), or Fuel rail. It must
be along with its fittings and hose clamps capable of the
flow and pressure required for safety reasons.
Ideals:
Stainless braided on fuel injected cars/bikes is safest, used
with threaded tee or adapters. This is not always easily
done, so a normal hose clamp/rubber pipe and barbed tee must
be used. Do this VERY CAREFULLY because if it leaks a
serious fire could result.
8. A Jet Holder for the Nitrous jet. (1/8th BSP to 4mm O/D
Nylon with nut and olive)
Specification:
Simple metal fitting. Male 1/8th BSP to 4mm nylon pipe -
Compression style. Best not to use "push lock" fittings
here. The 1/8th BSP side needs to be drilled and tapped M5
and recessed to accept a control jet.
Ideals:
Brass, Brass plated with nickel, Brass chromed, or Stainless
steel.
9. A Jet Holder for the Fuel Jet. (1/8th BSP to 4mm O/D Nylon
with nut and olive)
Specification:
Simple metal fitting. Exactly the same as the one above. -
Male 1/8th BSP to 4mm nylon pipe - Compression style. Best
not to use "push lock" fittings here. The 1/8th BSP side
needs to be drilled and tapped M5 and recessed to accept a
control jet.
Ideals: Brass, Brass plated
with nickel, Brass chromed, or Stainless steel.
10. Some 4mm O/D Nylon pipe to connect the solenoids to the
point of injection
Specification:
4mm outside diameter. Available cheaply in big rolls... In
many colours. The normal stuff has approx 2.4 to 2.5mm
inside diameter. It is NOT rated for 1000psi pressures, so
is not really suitable for the connection between bottle and
solenoids, but it WILL actually stand it OK. It is IDEAL for
connecting the solenoids outlet to the engine, injectors, or
distribution blocks. These are at much lower pressure
because the control jet is in the solenoids outlet, and the
pipes are "open" at the engine end. And more importantly
they have low thermal mass.
Ideals:
Pretty colours!
11. Nitrous/Fuel Injector - or occasionally more than 1
depending on engine configuration
Specification:
It must introduce the Nitrous into the engine, and preferably
the fuel as well. It can be two single connections close
together, or a single device that allows both fuel and
Nitrous to enter at the same point. In ALL cases the Nitrous
MUST "collect" the fuel and atomise it finely inside the
port, or air intake system.
Ideals:
Must look pretty, be small, and preferably use nuts and olives
in preference to "push lock" type fittings for reliability.
12. Assorted brackets and mounting hardware, cable ties,
grommets, wiring etc
Specification:
Difficult. Every vehicle and setup will be different.
Fabricate as required...
Ideals:
Solid, tidy, neat, well thought out.
13. An arming switch
Specification:
Any switch that looks cool, sits in your cars dashboard, or
somewhere within easy reach on a bike, that allows you to
switch "on" or arm the system ready for use. It must be
reliable, and be able to cope with 5 amps and preferably
have some kind of light or other indicator so you don't
forget its on!
Ideals:
Use a "standard" interior switch in your car that uses the
unused switch positions on your dashboard. This way it looks
standard, not obvious?
14. Throttle operated Micro-Switch or other alternative
Specification:
Use a GOOD QUALITY 5 amp or above micro switch, and seal against water
with silicon sealant or similar. Mount so the
throttle operates it at full throttle, or on the carb
/ throttle body instead.
Ideals:
Reliable!
*Technically
the term NOS is incorrect as this refers to an specific
company (called Nitrous Oxide Systems, in the US)
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