Burgerman's build your own Car & Motorcycle Nitrous Oxide Injection Systems
 (NOS*)  --  DIY Nitrous Kits for Cars or Motorcycles since '87  & Essential info and reading for ALL Nitrous Oxide System users!

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> Bike Nitrous:  Build your own Motorcycle Nitrous System (NOS Kit) very safely and cheaply!

John WilliamsonBuild your own Motorcycle Nitrous System

Nitrous works great on Motorcycle engines, jet-skis, snowmobiles, boats, outboards, micro-lites etc. Both two and four stroke, from 50cc to 1500cc

It works great on ALL engines, from lawnmowers (tried that), and model aircraft engines, up to big diesel marine engines, supercharged, turbocharged, or naturally aspirated can all be boosted with Nitrous Oxide.  Fuel injected, or  Carburettor. 

 

It makes absolutely no difference. All will work just fine with Nitrous Oxide as a power booster. Only a few small differences between each system are required.  Below is a 20 year old Nitrous System! Yes, from the days where Nitrous was all but unheard of. And only one or two companies made systems available to the public. Well I tried those and made my own because it was both better and massively cheaper.

Picture of a home made nitrous kit! Cost? VERY LITTLE!*Don't try building anything yet though, especially filling tanks and bottles, until you REALLY have grasped the finer details or it actually could be very dangerous! Knowledge really is power as well as safety in this case! Perfectly safe as long as you understood the parameters. 

For almost  any bike, you will the following items...

1. A bottle or "tank" to store Nitrous Oxide
Specification
: Any Vessel that can safely store Liquid Nitrous Oxide, meaning a Bottle/Tank with a 3000psi approx test pressure or higher used with a Bottle valve that has a pressure relief valve rated LOWER than this test pressure. It does not HAVE to be a conventional bottle. (For example if you wish to "cheat" you could fill part of a motorcycle frame, Rear swinging arm, or under a cars bonnet maybe the "strut brace" could be used for secret storage).

Ideals: Aluminium alloy, polished, or anodised, or painted in two pack epoxy spray paints and mounted using machined billet bracket, and/or Velcro straps for attractive and professional appearance. The one above is an old C02 fire extinguisher, polished and fitted with a new valve. If you plan to do the same make sure it actually is a CO2 one! Lesser ones will explode. Make sure it has a proper CO2 valve with an over pressure rupture disk. If its a proper CO2 valve it will have.


2. A valve for this bottle
Specification: 
A full flow, (internal bore 2.5 to 4mm) Bottle valve, usually as used for a C02 bottle. It must use a Siphon tube internally that fits into the underside of the valve to draw liquid Nitrous Oxide from the bottom of the bottle / tank. This Valve MUST have (for safety reasons) an Over Pressure rupture disk, as fitted to all C02 bottle valves that you can buy. 

Ideals: Small attractive, chromed or Aluminium alloy Valves preferred for a professional appearance.

3. A special fitting that fits this bottle valve and converts to a normal 1/8th BSP thread
Specification: A specialised fitting that follows the 2.5 to 4mm internal bore of the siphon tube/valve and fits the unique Carbon Di-Oxide (CO2)Valve thread that all these valves use, and reduces the thread size down to 1/8th BSP so we can then attach the Nitrous Line to the Valve.

Ideals: Most of the ones we find or can get easily are brass which goes dull! But, this can be Chromed, for the sake of appearances. Welding regulators use them, home brew suppliers have them, fire extinguishers also have this odd thread.

4. A braided Stainless steel Nitrous Pipe to feed the Solenoid
Specification: Recommended for all bikes and race vehicles - Normal Braided line. The same stuff countless racers, and motorcyclists use to swap onto their vehicles to replace the Rubber brake pipes! Its actually a PTFE (a sort of plastic) sleeve inside a woven stainless steel sheath. It has a 3.7mm internal bore. It can be expensive, if bought "branded (Goodridge, or Aeroquip for Example) or cheap if unbranded and bought off a roll by the meter.

Its all the same for our purposes. You will also need some fittings that are easy to screw onto the ends that go from "braided" to 1/8th BSP. These fittings have a minimum 2.30 mm internal bore.

Alternatively, and for cheapness, with some advantages for small power boosts only, and on some road cars, 4mm Nylon, but you will need the stuff with 1.7mm internal bore. And suitable fittings with nuts and olives. (not the more common 2.5mm bore stuff - its not really up to the pressure! but works most of the time)

Ideals: Stainless Braided pipe! With stainless steel fittings on anything with 40BHP extra added or above, and on all bikes. It looks more professional too.  Less than 40  use 4mm nylon, it has less internal volume and works better for small power increases.

The argument for and against 4mm Nylon for feeding Nitrous from the bottle is quite involved but... Its here should you be interested. Facts only. No "opinions"!

5. A Nitrous Solenoid!
Specification
: Needs to operate reliably, against up to 1500psi pressure of liquid Nitrous Oxide gas at only 10 volts DC as this is sometimes all that's available due to current drain on small light batteries on race vehicles without charging systems. It must also flow enough Nitrous for the intended power increase. The solenoids I modify are actually intended for compressed air, and after modification flow +140bhp worth of Nitrous Oxide. It must not "freeze" open, or leak, and must operate reliably over thousands of operations. Needs to be corrosion and vibration "safe"

Ideals: Should be low current drain, light small physically, easy to mount, have 1/8th BSP threads on inlet and outlet.  Stainless steel, or anodised aluminium bodies look the nicest and do not corrode. Magnet wiring and connections should be waterproof.

6. A Fuel Solenoid!
Specification:
Needs to operate reliably, against up to 100 psi pressure of liquid fuel @ only 10 volts DC as this is sometimes all that's available due to current drain on small light batteries on race vehicles without charging systems. It must also flow enough Fuel for the intended power increase. The solenoids I use here are actually intended for compressed air. There are many suitable ones, but the seat sealing material must be tested to make sure it does not harden, soften, deteriorate, dissolve in everything from pump fuels, to methanol, and various octane boosters. It must not "freeze" open, or leak, and must operate reliably over thousands of operations. Needs to be corrosion and vibration "safe"

Ideals: Should be low current drain, light small physically, easy to mount, have 1/8th BSP threads on inlet and outlet.  Stainless steel, or anodised aluminium bodies look the nicest and do not corrode. Magnet wiring and connections should be waterproof.


7. A Tee piece or other means of supplying fuel to the Fuel Solenoid - depends on vehicle
Specification:
Any type of tee piece can be used. Some means of tapping into the fuel pressure side of the Carb(s), or Fuel rail. It must be along with its fittings and hose clamps capable of the flow and pressure required for safety reasons.

Ideals: Stainless braided on fuel injected cars/bikes is safest, used with threaded tee or adapters. This is not always easily done, so a normal hose clamp/rubber pipe and barbed tee must be used. Do this VERY CAREFULLY because if it leaks a serious fire could result.


8. A Jet Holder for the Nitrous jet. (1/8th BSP to 4mm O/D Nylon with nut and olive)
Specification:
Simple metal fitting. Male 1/8th BSP to 4mm nylon pipe - Compression style. Best not to use "push lock" fittings here. The 1/8th BSP side needs to be drilled and tapped M5 and recessed to accept a control jet.

Ideals: Brass, Brass plated with nickel, Brass chromed, or Stainless steel.


9. A Jet Holder for the Fuel Jet. (1/8th BSP to 4mm O/D Nylon with nut and olive)
Specification:
Simple metal fitting. Exactly the same as the one above. - Male 1/8th BSP to 4mm nylon pipe - Compression style. Best not to use "push lock" fittings here. The 1/8th BSP side needs to be drilled and tapped M5 and recessed to accept a control jet.

Ideals: Brass, Brass plated with nickel, Brass chromed, or Stainless steel.


10. Some 4mm O/D Nylon pipe to connect the solenoids to the point of injection
Specification: 4mm outside diameter. Available cheaply in big rolls... In many colours. The normal stuff has approx 2.4 to 2.5mm inside diameter. It is NOT rated for 1000psi pressures, so is not really suitable for the connection between bottle and solenoids, but it WILL actually stand it OK. It is IDEAL for connecting the solenoids outlet to the engine, injectors, or distribution blocks. These are at much lower pressure because the control jet is in the solenoids outlet, and the pipes are "open" at the engine end. And more importantly they have low thermal mass.

Ideals: Pretty colours!

11. Nitrous/Fuel Injector - or occasionally more than 1 depending on engine configuration
Specification:
It must introduce the Nitrous into the engine, and preferably the fuel as well. It can be two single connections close together, or a single device that allows both fuel and Nitrous to enter at the same point. In ALL cases the Nitrous MUST "collect" the fuel and atomise it finely inside the port, or air intake system.

Ideals: Must look pretty, be small, and preferably use nuts and olives in preference to "push lock" type fittings for reliability.


12. Assorted brackets and mounting hardware, cable ties, grommets, wiring etc
Specification: Difficult. Every vehicle and setup will be different. Fabricate as required...

Ideals: Solid, tidy, neat, well thought out.

 

 


13. An arming switch
Specification:
Any switch that looks cool, sits in your cars dashboard, or somewhere within easy reach on a bike, that allows you to switch "on" or arm the system ready for use. It must be reliable, and be able to cope with 5 amps and preferably have some kind of light or other indicator so you don't forget its on!

Ideals: Use a "standard" interior switch in your car that uses the unused switch positions on your dashboard. This way it looks standard, not obvious?


14. Throttle operated Micro-Switch or other alternative
Specification:
Use a GOOD QUALITY 5 amp or above micro switch, and seal against water with silicon sealant or similar. Mount so the throttle operates it at full throttle, or on the carb / throttle body instead.

Ideals: Reliable!  If it fails your nitrous system wont work. If it fails ON you keep accelerating which is obviously not good!

*Technically the term NOS is incorrect as this refers to an specific company (called Nitrous Oxide Systems, in the US

 
 

Web design & contents, Nitrous / fuel Jet Sizing, technical information, pictures, charts are all 1987 and on. Any theft will be pursued vigorously..

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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